Clem , Paul and Jordan Full Comment

On leaving Windhoek, Andre the tour guide leading and Paul, Jordon and Clem following headed on tar road for @ 20km then the excitement started, with limited off road experience the gravel road was a challenge, with the front and back wheels having a mind of their own. 2 of us decided to slow down until we got used to it, Jordon the 14 year old whizzed off in front of us enjoying every twist and turn in the gravel road making us old ones look like amateurs. On one occasion the bikes in front of me came across a heard off cows and decided to slow down, with all the dust in front of me because of the breaking I could not see what I was approaching.

Not being confident on a dirt bike I could not stop in time and the cows were getting closer and closer and would not move out of the way until I could nearly touch them, we nearly had fresh meat that night, everyone one was laughing apart from me. The first night camping was an experience; we encountered fresh game on the campfire from the local ranch, Kudu, oryx and a complimentary sauce, which was cooked by our tour guide Andre. Once we had plenty of food and drink we decided to go to bed, none of us had camped out in Africa before so the 3 of us stayed in one tent just in case something came and got us, honestly I think we were all a little scared. The morning wake up call was a cockerel calling from about 4 in the morning, all excited we got up, had breakfast, then packed and on the bikes again to Etosha. On arrival at Etosha we had to leave the bikes at the entrance gates and hopped aboard Mully, Mully is the support vehicle that goes on and on and just don’t want to stop. We headed to the water hole, flood lighting enabled us to see all the amazing animals including Black Rhino, Elephants, Hyena, Springbok, Black back Fox.

We were concerned at one point as Paul was no where to be found, yes he was at the water hole again, so intrigued and fascinated by the wild animals. Jordon and Clem pulled a prank on Andre and Werner by tying them down in their beds and from that day on the pranks continued along with lots of laughter by all on tour and we became one big happy family. The second day at Etosha we went on a game drive, searching for lions, driving for many hours and after Andre taking the wrong road we found a Pride of six, laying under a tree shading from the hot African sun. The lions just seem to pose for the many photo’s we took and watched them for at least an hour. The next day we headed to Gelbingen Lodge were we visted the Ovahimba Tribe and spent hours with them, encountering how they live with so little. This made us realize that material things don’t matter in life, as long as you smile as the OvahImba’s do continuously. Camp Xaragu was the first night we slept out in the open, no tents, just under the night sky with the amazing stars, which included shooting stars, a good nights sleep had by all. Onto Sorris Sorris on the dry riverbed, riding our bikes down too and along the riverbed where we camped out wild, with no amenities, a shovel for our toilet. Beside the camp fire we had game, Kudu, and T bone steaks. Another nights sleep under the stars.

The next morning we where all excited and the adrenalin was flowing as we headed to Brandberg mountain and the desert elephant, we encountered lots off roading, through trees, long grass, rocky ground and long stretches of deep sandy areas tracking the desert elephant, this also included most of us falling off in the sandy terrain. After lunch the search continued along the riverbed we eventually found fresh tracks with detailed footprints. Unfortunately we did not find the elephants due to a spill on one of the bikes and a puncture repair and straightening the handlebars, but no injuries and many enjoyable and exciting moments. Paul felt like a teenager of 14 again. The next day we headed across the desert for @ 100km to Henties Bay, the ride was monotonous and the temperature dropped dramatically near the Skeleton Coast. We had lunch and then headed south to Swakopmund along the beach for 80km, with sightings of dead mammals including a Green Turtle, Seals and a dolphin skeleton, the ride on the beach was very exciting and challenging and made up for the boring desert crossing. Relaxing in Swakopmund for a day, reminiscing in a coffee shop about the tour to date, the spills, laughter, animals and the forth-coming Dune ride.

Sunday, should be a day of rest for all, but us mad bikers we went Dune riding, apprehensive we approached the Dunes and thought how would we get up there, but with some expert tuition from Werner he gave us the confidence to ride the Dunes which we all did with copious amount of enjoyment and pleasure. Lunch at Walvis Bay. Then an exciting sandy ride back to Swakopmund via Dune 7. The last day”s ride was back to Windhoek via the Bosua pass, 340km of exhilarating riding and amazing scenery.

The whole tour which started with many emails and telephone discussions back in 2007, the airport pickup, friendly approach, organization, people, bikes, Andre (tour guide) Werners family and hospitality will stay in your thoughts for many months to come. We all became very good friends and the days we spent at their family home with them has made us realize there is more to life than the UK, We are all sad to leave them behind but already in discussion with Werner for next years expedition.

PS please can we have spreadable butter on our next tour!!!!!! Many Thanks Clem, Paul Jordon.

Agnes German - Full Comment

Langsam setzt sich die Karovane von zirka 10 Jeeps in Bewegung, die Grenzformalitäten waren in relativ kurzer Zeit abgehandelt worden dank der Hilfe der fast einheimischen Guides. Grenzformalitäten ein viel zu förmlicher Begriff, ein einsamer Beamte sitz unter einem Baum auf einer Kiste und schreibt in aller Ruhe unsere Daten in ein Heft, 500 Meter zwischen zerschossenen Häusern werden auch die Daten unserer Jeeps in einem ähnlichen Heft festgehalten, wehrend wir warten ziehen Himbas durch die Gegend, in ihren Augen finde ich fast das selbe Erstaunen wie in meinen, wir sind zwei Welten die aneinander vorüber streichen.

Jetzt sind wir in Angola und das Abenteuer kann beginnen, auf natürliche Weise bilden sich Abstande zwischen den Jeeps, in kurze ist alles, die Wagen, das Gepäck und selbstverständlich auch wir mit einer Staubschicht bedeckt doch kaum nehme ich Kenntnis davon, so bin ich von der Landschaft um mich fasziniert. 240Km bis an den Strand für mich Europäerin bedeute das zwei Stunden Fahrt, hier sind es drei wunderbare Tage, die Landschaft verändert sich fast ununterbrochen und das Fahren oder besser über ausgetrocknete Flussbette, Sandgruben, Gebirgswege, oder Steinschluchten zu schleichen ist unbeschreiblich.

Immer wieder hab ich das Gefühl, daß unser Wagen das kommende Hindernis nicht schaffen wird und doch klettern wir immer weiter und meine Hochachtung den Fahrern gegenüber ist ohne Grenzen. Werner Schulz ist nicht nur der Planer der Reise sondern auch unser hervorragender Koch, selten wurden mir so geschmackige Gerichte zubereitet. Er kocht in Topfen die Hexenpotiche gleichen, grillt auf extra für diese Touren entworfenen Geraten und backt sogar frisches Brot für besonders anspruchsvolle Freunde. Immer gut gelaunt bringt in nichts aus der Ruhe, nicht einmal zwei Stunden Zeitverlust weil ein Wagen im Sand stecken bleibt. Unglaublich er findet sogar die Zeit und die Gelassenheit mit den Kindern der Einheimischen zu spielen, versucht eine Unterhaltung mit ihnen Er ist Entertainer, tanzt und singt für uns und hilft mir sogar meine Angst vor Schlangen zu überwinden. Abends wird in kürze das Camp aufgebaut, das Lagerfeuer last nicht auf sich warten und ich lerne wie einfach es ist ein Zelt aufzustellen. Höhepunkt des Genusses der ersten Tage, eine Dusche mit warmen Wasser die mir Werner im Mitten vom nichts aufbaut. Ich fühle das Wasser an mir herunter rinnen, blicke auf den Sternenhimmel über mir, lausche der leichten Gerausche des Windes und atme.

Einfach ein Erlebnis das ich nur empfehlen kann. Einmal durch die Berge kommen wir in eine sandigere Gegend, die Jeeps werden für die Dünen vorbereiten und die Fahrt geht weiter, vor mir das Bild der unendlichen Weite dieses Landes. Die anderen Wagen, angedeutet nur durch eine leichte Staubwolke, verlieren sich in der Ferne in der untergehenden Sonne. Der Ozean ist nahe und man kann ihn jetzt schon fast riechen, unser Ziel die Mündung des Kunene, einer der großen Flüsse die träge durch Afrika fließen. Jetzt wo wir an unserem Ziel sind können wir es uns auch leisten ein par Tage am selben Ort zu campen, Wasser haben wir genug vom Fluss und fischen scheint hier das allerleichteste, keine fünf Minuten und schon beißt einer an, ich habe jedoch nicht einmal das Anfängerglück, weiter entfernt an der Küsten finden wir eine Kolonie von Flamingos und viele Spuren anderer Tiere.

Die Unendlichkeit zwischen Ozean und Dünen ist hier überwältigend und nur sehr schwer in Worte zu fassen. Mir, gebürtige Wiener die sich immer gegen jede Art von Camping gewehrt hat, ist es nun fast unfassbar all dies in wenigen Tagen verlassen zu müssen um wieder in meine Welt zurück zukehren. Wie eine Art Sucht bleibt all dies an mir haften, das Licht, die Farben, die Weite und natürlich die Menschen die mich in diesem Erlebnis begleitet haben


Agnes - Full Comment

Slowly the caravan of about 10 4x4's starts. The visa formalities took place in a quite a short period of time thanks to the help of the local guide.

To name it visa formalities is to formal as a single immigration officer is sitting under a tree on a crate while writing all details in a small book at his own time, just 500 meters away from a house torn with bullet holes and he also takes the details of vehicles in a small book similais to the other. While waiting for visa processHimbas pass the scene in their eyes I find the same astonishment as in my eyes. We are two worlds passing each other at this moment. Now that we have crossed the border the adventure begins. In a short period the vehicles, equipment, luggage and ourselves are covered in dust. I dont really realise that so I am so fascinated with the landscape and all I see around me. there are 240 km of beach , but that means for me as a european 2hrs of driving through a beautiful enviroment.

3 wonderful days of driving now awaits us in which the landscape changes without any interuption. The driving or better "the pace of a snail' through dry river beds with big sand holes , the path through the mountains and valleys is absolutely amazing. All this time I get this feeling that our car is not able to get over the next hindernis, but never the less we are climbing higher and higher. My admiration for skills of drivers are endless. Apart from the fact that Werner Schulz is the organiser of the whole expidition , he also is an excellent cook. Not often that I have tasted such delicious food. He is cooking in a traditional 3leg pot, and he is grilling on a special grill. made especially for the tour and on top of that he's baking his own bread that he normally only bakes for friends. He always in a good mood, nothing that can really upset him not even a loss of 2 hours because of the car being stuck in the sand.


Unbelievably Werner Schulz still finds time and relaxness to play with the local children and to communicate with them. He's an entertainer he sings and dances for us and also helps me to get over the fear for snakes. In the evenings they build a camp in a very short time. The fire is prepared very fast and I also learn how easy it is to put up a tent. The highlight of enjoyment is when Werner assembles a shower with hot water and cold water in the middle of nowhere. Under the stars I feel water on my skin, listening to the sounds of nature and I just inhale! This is an experience I definately would recommend! Once we come through the mountains into a sandy area , the Jeeps will be prepared for dunes and the trip can carry on. In front of me the endlessness of this breathtaking landscape . We can only see the other cars, silhouettes, because of the dust as the sun is slowly fading away on the horizon.

The ocean is now so close we can smell it in the breeze. Our aim is to get to the mouth of the Kunene, one of the biggest rivers which follows slowly through Africa.. As we reach our destination we put up camp.As we now know we can spend a few days in the same spot. There is also enough water from the Kunene, fish is plenty so it should be easy to catch. Not even five minutes later the first fish bites, but unfortunately I don't that beginners luck.


A bit futher down the coast we come across a colony of flamingos and amongst others we spot footprints of other wild animals. The endlessness between ocean and dunes is absolutely amazing, it leaves me speechless. For me as a born viennese I never camped and was quite negative about the whole Idea, but this experience left me yearning to spend more time doing just that and not wanting to go back to my world.

After this whole experience I was left wanting to go back to it all, the light, the colours, the endlesness and the people who accompanied us on the trip.

 



Full Comments